One of the stormiest winters in living memory has changed the shape of our beaches hugely and it could take years and years and years before they return to how they were.
There are banks and trenches all over the beach. If you're surfing over a shallow bank, the waves will be steep and powerful. If you're over a deeper trench, the waves will appear to disappear under your feet.
Add the constantly moving tide to the jumble and it can get quite confusing. Banks will work for 20 minutes before they change. Study this picture of the banks and think about what you're surfing over considering what state of the tide it is. Getting this right will make or beak your surf.
Unfortunately the things that control what waves look like are a tad more complex than the number of stars on a Magic Seaweed forecast. Getting to understand the whereabouts of these banks could score you some sick waves, and save you paddling into the flacid fat ones .
I'm busy working on my blog posts. Watch this space!